UnEmployed's Blog

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Waves were in the 1-2 foot range and clean, tide was a little high and rising, pretty good for a west wrap if that is really what it was.

For some reason it was freakishly good for a shortboard today.  From shore it didn't look very rippable but in the water it was really a day for shorties, even SO?  Started off at the Point was less crowded than SO, then when it crowded, SO emptied, and then when SO crowded ML emptied.

I was told by a couple people today that I should surf only my fish and dump the rest... except Tommy, he said I'm the only guy he knows who can SUP but switches, and with no rhyme or reason, was trying to figure why today, gave up, said I should just stay SUPr.

Chica forecast is that it goes flat after you get back.

 

Sorry forgot the camera!  Was packing the Rawson SUP.

Eastside

Started off down at Kualoa... was EPIC... too bad no waves.  Winds were offshore, tide was high, was barely breaking.

Went down to Rainbows, morning sickness, was breaking but mushy and the tide was too high was backing off.

Went down to Crouching Lions, occassional but mostly flat, breaking very small over ther reef.  Checked down Kahana, was breaking way far out on the outside but over rocks.

Went back to Rainbows, got nicer butt a whole lot smaller. 

Used the bathroom at Kualoa, and it was even more gorgeous but no waves.

Decided to Furlough and rest today because my back was sore last night, too much lie down surfing, decided to waste gas and go home the long way through the North Shore.

North Shore

It was odd, I was driving north and it kept getting flatter and flatter.  Punaluu side wasn't breaking.  Pulled in at Malaekahana it was flat, little bit at Goat Island over the rocks.  Kahuku was flat... so I started driving faster thinking I could pull a fast one down at Piddles.

Right when Vland was in sight... whoa?!  like 10 ft Hawaiian and sideways?  Hit Sunset where the contest was on and it was packed breaking way in the middle and not the right side as it usually does.... weird angle.  Pipeline was breaking all funny too but clean, brown and empty.

Sharks Cove was glassy and nice and flat?  Rubber Duckies was ramrodding the rocks.  Waimea was barely breaking when I drove by, the shorebreak was about 3ft on the right hand side of the bay, on the left it was about 4ft.

Hit Piddlies, it looked doable, about 4-6 feet but strong current.  Chun's wasn't breaking it was just one long left from Jocko's down until Piddles.  Laniakea was maybe about 8ft and breaking all over the place.  Yellow caution tape lined the beaches from Laniakea down to Piddlies.

Puena

Pulled in a Puena because I had to use the bathroom... coffee... only had 4 out.  Inside had 2 beginner SUP's and breaking waist to chest high and mushy.  Inside Outside was about shoulder to head high with the other 2 out and shoulder to head high and jacking, a lot of east side chop.  Outside nobody.  So being the good State worker I am I worked on my furlough day.  Headed to the outside where the waves were about 1-3ft over head,.  I was joining mine to the inside. 

It was really fun until 8 haole guys paddled out and got in the way.  Kept trying to share waves?   I pulled my ab a good one when one of them got in a section I had just cleared.  I was setting up for another bottom turn to make the next section and he came zooming out of the whitewater right below me, I pushed hard on the paddle to immediately change course back up the wave, and pop my ab went, luckily I held on and took the board over his head flattened and ate it.  Had to go in.  Cut through 15 more haole people who paddled out and were trying to learn in the inside soup and getting tumbled.

From Puena I saw Haleiwa which was breaking around 6 feet, I saw an 8 footer creep in.  Avalanche was mackin' and the Haole guys were all saying how they wish they were towing in over there right now!  Ack!!!

Anyways

I'll probably be in town tom'w lickng my wounds and looking for that west wrap on my shortboard.  Westies are usually ugly in town... Maybe Old Man's on a SUP?

  

 

Crowded

Pulled in a little after 6am and parked 3rd row?!

 

Doesn't everyone know it's December?  What are they doing here.  Waves were lining up better but down from yesterday.  I snuck out at the Point this morning because it was less crowded than SO and BETTER.  Tide was kind of high, winds were light, northerly and cold in the morning, to easterly later on, to ESE even later on.

Tom'w we're going back to the east side, west winds?  I'm going to try and stay out of trouble this time around... hehehe.  Kado said I could borrow his Bang Bang, but I decided to not go packing.

Queen's BBQ

It's called QUEEN STREET CAFE ...I haven't taken pictures of the food there yet so I took the camera in today.  Located on Queen Street about 2 buildings down from Tropical Blends, next door to a Mattress place. BBQing right along the roadside. 

 

This is the mini furikake chicken and mac salad plate for $4!!!  Add a drink for $.50.  Da chicken is topped with the Wasabi Aioli they make in house.  On the mac I got the classic pepper and homemade chili pepper water.  ONO!!! 

Other $4 mini's include BBQ Chicken and Steak.  They also have daily specials.  Regular size plate is $6 has 2 scoops rice and more meat.  Choices of Mac, Pasta, and Green Salad, and then Brown/White rice.

CHEEP EATS!!! 

Re-Post

Reposting da slideshow for Lisa so she can find it.  Lot's of comments on the song, it's from Jonny's favorite show Glee on Wednesday nights at 8pm.  Next Wednesday is the season finale.  I downloaded it off of Itunes but also available from Amazon.

 

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Was junk... check out da slide show!

Really in the early part it was breaking all of the place, slowly got better, cleaned up, and then after Bobby guys went in came inconsistent and the inside came really mushy and not jacking like earlier.  On shores picked up around 9:15.

JUNK... check out da slide show!!!

I told Jonny I've been on the Blogs ripping photo's for a slideshow.  Started the last week in November, figured I should finish it up because good photo's keep getting posted.  I had to sift through close to 300 photo's.

It's amazing how Jonny's and Kumu's photo talents have grown up through now. 

MLGF and Deano you're in this one too.

 

Jonny you like da music???

Crouching Lion Hidden Dragon

As advertised went tripping out Northeast today.

 Left hand side is Kualoa after the morning sickness, the right is Rainbows that never did get over the morning sickness... must be pregnant.  Sorry using small kine pictures today cuz there's a lot.

If you heard on the radio debris was washing up on the road in Kaaawa

First picture get sand, 2nd - hint it didn't rain out there and the road is wet? 3rd is at Kualoa when I was refilling water in my jug, shot my load at Crouching Lions.

I ended up by Crouching Lions.  Right across the street from:

Never went out there, everyone always tells me it's ALWAYS bigger than it looks.  So here's da game...  Keep in mind the news was calling it 3-5 foot faces and I packed my 11OH.

Size Matters

How Big?

 

This is Razors... to bad the guy kicked out could've gave it away.

 

This is just outside Razor's

This is breaking outside the Channel and where I was.  Take into consideration my truck was the size of my pinky fingernail where I was.  The Channel was that weird texture due to the breakwater from the breaks both sides meeting up in a much deeper part.

 

This is a picture of waves stacking out near the mouth of Kahana Bay (the inside wasn't breaking, I looked).  I hate to know how big this really was.  Picture taken from the same place I took the others.

Here's a side view of what it looked like from Swanzies.

So how big which is most of the story. 

Picture 1 is about 4 feet Hawaiian, it was overhead +2ft and very steep... couldn't tell.

Picture 2 is about where I started off surfing and was in the 5-6ft range, about double overhead, face slightly smaller than the length of my board.

Picture 3 - Where I spent most of my time was about 8ft+!  The face was 1.5 x the length of my board...  11ft (well the ones I took there were bigger ones.  And yes the peak backs were taller than me!

So I didn't take any at 1st picture because was too steep.  2nd picture I took 2 waves but saw da beeg ones and was a little nervous about getting smashed so paddled out.  Picture 3 I took 4 waves from.  

1st to see if I could do it, made it.

2nd because I made the first, made it.

3rd I ate it and got caught and drilled a few times, was practicing the Kama Sutra with my paddle so it wouldn't crack da ribbies.  Put it this way when I knew I was going to eat it, I jumped and had time to press the shaft of my paddle into my chest and fat of my cheek, wrap my leg around and press my foot against the blade, straighten the other leg and other arm and land into the water at angle shaper than 45 degrees breaking the surface of the water to go deep.  Held down for one wave came up and got hit by two more, held my paddle because if I lost that I wouldn't be able to get in, no way in hell could I paddle in

4th I was scared shetliss because the waves were getting bigger.  But I sucked it up paddled to the other side and took a right which was holding up more and slopy and nailed it!  It was less intimidating because I couldn't see it was my back side.

Bonus - Resession?

Got a call from a friend while I was debating Kualoa.  He works at The Oceanic Institute, right across from Bebe's and next door to Sea Life Park.  He calls if it's good.  Only thing is the winds were picking up?

 

It was breaking in the middle and you could go left meet up and then take the right all the way in.  Too bad though the wind did pick up and strong... can't tell by the pics.  But I was standing on one of the concrete pillars taking pictures and was blown off by a strong gust of wind.  I stood against my truck after that debating because it looked so nice but my truck was shaking so I decided to go home.

 

 

Not sure why, but my camera was acting up, kept taking pictures of the sky today... I took around 60 pictures, a good 10 were of the sky and 20 were blurry. 

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Kewahlo's was doing it's best impression of Cali this morning.  Conditions were outright beautiful with a sunrise on one side and a full moon on the other.  Clyde claimed there was enough moonlight to surf and was in the water at 5am?!  Other than that really light wind and glass and weak but nice waves at maybe about a 1ft to a 1+ft at the point.

Depending on who you talk to and where you were you'll get a real mix bag report.  SO was pretty junk with the tide killing it, so was ML's but the Point was good and empty so I went down there with only 4 out!  I paddled out there with my 11OH.

And then as the tide dropped...

 

 

It got good!  My photo editor deleted a couple of my pics, was acting up but I had some nicer ones.

Disastah

 

This boat ran aground this morning around 7:30am.  Not sure how or why and I guess none of the Coasties or News people speak Micro, because they don't know either.  Kado just looked up and said hey that boat is on the wrong side of the buoy, and next thing you know STUCK!

They are going to offload the fuel and try tow it off at hightide this afternoon being that earlier attempts failed.  It's a low high tide at 0.5, the next big hightide is tommorrow morning around 5am, and that's after a negative tide this evening.

I was flipping through the websites to see if I made the news surfing in the background, but shucks, no dice.

Online Poll

Tommorrow we get some SSW winds with a NNW swell in the 6-10 Hawaiian Scale Range.... means... EAST SIDE!!!  Might go Tripping with Ron tommorrow, he's going to call me up this evening. 

If not where should I go AND what should I ride?

Isn't being Unemployed tough... the decisions are stressful!

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Surf was smaller than yesterday but had a little more waves when the sets did come in.  Again it was maybe about 1ft with clean conditions for a change.

It seemed pretty good when I got to the beach and was getting ready but after I caught a few it just slowed down.  I paddled down to da Sherifless ML's with Wes and caught some there.  When it slowed down there I decided to paddle down to Waikiki.  Waikiki was barely breaking, Pop's was crowded so I messed around 3's by myself before heading back. 

New SUP

On my way down I met up with Tommy down at Bowls on his NEW SUP, yup finally came in.  It looks like the PSH 9'2"  AA with fuller, thicker rails and a wider swallow tail, just like he intended it to be.  It's a 9'0" 4+1 with a "mean vee" on the bottom,...I don't know I didn't see, but Tommy said has.  It's supposed to be really stable.

Overall Tommy loves it and gave it the greenlight for production.  To me the outline and concept looks good, but the really thick rails especially in the nose is a turn off.  The board is also very wide, maybe 29"+ but Tommy intended it to be that way for beginners.  It's lightyears ahead of what Kaimana had been producing.   

He will be down at Kewahlo's tom'w if anyone like demo.

SUP Partner

If you think Kumu is lucky to be getting off soon, what do you think of Randy LK?  His last day of work was last week Wednesday for the REST OF THE YEAR!!!  Looking for a surf preferably SUP partner for country.  We'll probably go down this week a couple times but I recommended Kumu for later this month.

Happy Aniversary

We go back to Dean's Kitchen...

5 Months ago, I became Unemployed... wow... I thought I'd be employed by now... especially before Chica got back.    Oh well, can't say I haven't been enjoying myself.

 

Thanks Jonny for the pic, CT for the cake, Dean for use of his Kitchen, and lucky Doug for the girl!

 

Report - It's Winter

The picture above says it all... ripples.  When I grabbed my board this morning, my family thought I was nuts.

Waves were maybe a foot if you're lucky, WAY down from yesteday and REALLY inconsistent.  It was windy when I got there so I ran the park and it would be my luck but the wind died when I was running and working out with ocassional gusts.  And then I got back and jumped back in at the point with my fish and of course the winds picked up.

I was surfing with Wes, Darren, PSH Gurl's Friend (da one that helped chica get her board).  Then Darren went in and so did Wes but a sponge paddled out.  I caught 4 good waves and then it just stopped.  I kept giving the waves to Udder PSH Gurl so her pointers wouldn't come off (CT showed it could happen), she was shaking in her teenie beekeenie.  I was wearing my spring seal suit.  Point despite it's dimunitive size was very clean, I got shacked on one.  Got out put on jeans, a beanie and a sweater.

Not sure what SNN is calling but they are still insisting that the 1-2+ bump will come in, if not Sunday or Monday then Tuesday?  If you ask me that was IT yesterday.

 

See the dark white cap... that's light reflecting off of Roland's head.

 

You can tell it's winter when you start surfing sideways at the point.

Mahalo

First off a big Mahalo to Lisa for breakfast it was ono, Big City Diner, good choice!  Sorry nevah bring the cam, butt in attendance was Lisa, Kumu, Nelson, Joey, Gary, Russ, and me.  Da food across da table was ono!  

And yes she will be reading this blog she is now online!!!

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Surf was very small and very windy, butt doable.  For those of you thinking about that south bump, not worth it.  It was more consisstent than friday and lining up better but also half the size which really doesn't say much!

Also it was cccccold!  First time I was wearing a rubber and had to pull out early.  I was shivering?!

You Go Gurl!

While I was crying about going right on overhead bowly stuff at Chunn's, Carissa was going right and winning!

 

Congratulations!